Johannesburg – On Friday evening, in downtown Johannesburg, a group of men, a world away from the classy suburbs, including some of Africa's richest regions, are swarming on dark streets as security patrols bubble into the past.
At the popular jazz venue, the Marabie Club has been another victim of the collapse of the city centre and the inequality of South Africa after apartheid, since it closed after its last Friday night show.
“It's devastating. It's an iconic space in the city centre, and there's another reason why we don't come downtown now. It's a real sign of the decline of the city,” said Climate Change consultant Renata Lawton Misra, 34, attending a concert with her husband, Kyle Schutte.
For Schutte, the reason behind the closure is clear. “Safety concerns,” said the 38-year-old financial consultant, who usually doesn't step into the area. Downtown is now known for its rampaging crime and aging infrastructure after the end of the racist apartheid system in 1994 and after white people left the suburbs. “Recognition is a question of whether it is true or not.”
The Marabie Club was part of a wave of investment designed to revitalize downtown, particularly the Mabonen district, about a decade ago. It was founded in 2017 by TJ Steyn, the son of large South African Late Insurance Douw Steyn and Dale de Ruig.
The club captivated visitors such as Jay-Z and Beyoncé.
“Look at what we made here with great food and music,” said waiter Emmanuel Makoteri, pointing to a room full of professionals in mostly black urban areas.
The club is named after Marabhi, a jazz movement that emerged in the 1920s to celebrate South Africa's rich musical heritage. At the time, miners and daytime workers gathered downtown and were drawn into illegal Sheben's (public taverns) by the sounds of marabies, repeated and improvised keyboard songs.
The genre gained popularity through bands such as Jazz Maniacs, Hugh Masekela and Miriam Makeba.
“I grew up singing marabi,” said Mbarizetu Sirma, 40, a resident vocalist at the club, sang soul and R&B, and invited rather dressed guests to dance after dinner.
Despite the caution received by the club, South Africa's strict Covid-19 lockdown has hit other businesses that wanted to rebuild parts of downtown Johannesburg. A series of eight short-lived mayors in five years made things worse as essential public works were cancelled.
Downtown Johannesburg's neglect was brought to international attention in 2023 when a fire in an overcrowded apartment building left unregulated by killing 76 people.
“We knew it wasn't the best place to open a jazz club, but we were hoping it was a move upward,” De Ruig told the Associated Press. “In the end, it was a bit of a false start.”
He said the city offers almost “lol without assistance” and basic requests for better lighting, security and cleaning in the area were ignored.
The city's government said it could not close the door for the reasons behind the private venue, but spokesman Nthatisi Modingoane said it was “unfortunate for the creative economy.”
For Lusanda Netshitenzhe, a member of the steering committee of the Joburg Crisis Alliance, a coalition that works to end corruption and improve the services of city government, the closing of the Marabi Club represents a broader issue.
“Unfortunately, people feel it's not safe to reach Mabonen,” Netshitenzhe said. “It was once celebrated… Unfortunately, it's not going well anymore due to deep systemic issues in the city of Johannesburg, poor urban governance and lack of leadership.”
In a city speech this month, Mayor Dada Morello said “a drastic era calls for dramatic measures,” and vowed to step up efforts to revitalize the city center, including rehabilitating abandoned buildings and installing public lighting.
Plans to revive the area are too late for the club and its musicians.
“Maybe there's something better… Look at how this place looks, Marabi isn't dying,” Silma said before taking to the stage.
De Luig and his partners are considering moving the club to Stein City, a gated commercial and residential area owned by the Stein family, 32km (20 miles) north of Johannesburg city centre.
Downtown is left to those who can't afford to leave.
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